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It’s about 450kms from Paris to Lyon (or Lyons if your prefer in English) but forget about the four-and-a-half hour drive and instead save money, time and the environment by taking the high-speed TGV train service. After all, the journey time is just under two hours.

Added to which there’s a regular service, although you’ll need to reserve your seat in advance – a requirement when buying a ticket on a TGV – as even though ours was one of those double-decker jobs, it was packed. Clearly proof that plenty of people regularly commute between the two cities.

This was my first trip to Lyon – primarily to see a production of Porgy and Bess at the opera house. But it was also a chance for a glimpse at what’s reputed to be one of the most beautiful of France’s cities (the country’s third largest) and something of a gastronomic paradise. Although I knew a late arrival and an early departure the following day wouldn’t really give me the chance for any fine dining.

As fate would have it our arrival at Lyon’s Part Dieu station was heralded by the opening of the skies as the heavens fair chucked it down. This was a case of “April showers bringing forth more showers in May.”

No it doesn’t scan properly and it deviates from the original, but sadly it was the case and arriving umbrella-less meant standing in line for a taxi to take us to the hotel.

After checking in and freshening up it was time to jump into another taxi – yes it was still pouring – to make the short hop to the Opera house.

Now Lyon’s Opera house is a grand old building, dating back to 1831 although it had a bit of a facelift in 1993 as part of a “modernisation” drive.

Unfortunately that seems to have resulted in a pretty dated look in the bits that have been updated with the interior of both the downstairs bar and the main auditorium boasting a wonderful black-red colour scheme – very much of its time.

Then there are the tiled shiny floors of glossy marble that turn into a veritable skating rink for those wearing leather-soled shoes the moment a spot of rain hits the surface.

No prizes for guessing who had squeezed himself into a brand new pair that turned into skates once his feet hit the ground.

On to the performance – which was sold out – and our third row black (plastic-backed of course) seats gave us a splendid view of the stage, a definite plus given the rather special nature of the production, because it wasn’t just all about singing – as fabulous as the voices were.

The directors of this particular version were the choreographers José Montalvo and Dominique Hervieu, whose contemporary dance company would add an extra element to the opera.

That proved to be vital factot especially as George Gershwin’s opera is long – very long – very far too long even for my opera-intolerant companion for the evening who insisted on trying to listen with eyes (and presumably ears) wide shut.

Mind you, I had to have some sympathy as apart from the frequently reprised “Summertime” and “Ain’t necessarily so” there aren’t a great deal of instantly familiar and hummable-alongable tunes.

The music was as brooding as ever and the vocal performances marvellous but what really sold this production – to me and most of the rest of the audience – were the dance and visual effects.

Both were spectacular. There were some exhausting yet evocatively hip-hop moves to reflect mood changes and interpret both the music and lyrics. A sort of double effect, complementary rather than repetitive.

The performances were electrifying and although sometimes they appeared perhaps a little clichéd they kept (most of) us on the edge of our seats mesmerised by not just the power and strength but also the grace and beauty.

An extra visual effect was the video backdrop – something of a Montalvo- Hervieu speciality.

It was sometimes a little disturbing particularly when showing recordings of the dancers doing exactly the same routines they were performing live, but purposefully just a little out of synchronisation.

Maybe it’s just an age thing but there seemed to be a few too many assaults on the senses at the same time – very much an “MTV generation comes of age” sort of thing with the ethos seeming to be “let’s sling everything at them (the audience) at once and see how they manage.”

Mostly though the video worked magnificently, especially when it complemented something that was happening slightly off stage such as a bloody murder or a torrid love scene.

The bottom line was that the production wasn’t one that could be listened to with eyes closed and fully deserved the rapturous applause it received at the end.

Ravenous after the performance it was up to the seventh floor for a late night, two-course meal. The set menu at €30 was all right but nothing special. There again at almost midnight there wasn’t really any other alternative, so a return trip to Lyon will have to be made just to confirm that it lives up to its gastronomic reputation.

Fed and watered, strolled back to the hotel – hallelujah it had stopped raining.

If the Opera house left me questioning the tastes of Lyon’s interior designers and architects, then our hotel – Beaux Arts – left me flummoxed.

It’s officially now the Mercure Beaux Arts – part of the Accor group and therefore second only in the category of hotel to the chain’s Sofitels. Maybe the price – €99 for a double room – should have signalled what to expect – nothing special.

While it describes itself as an Art Deco hotel, unfortunately it manages only offer a very poor copy of what could be the real thing. The sad fact is that the heart and soul of the place have been ripped out with no real thought of aesthetics.

Our room should have been a delightful tribute to the past. Instead it had been stripped of all its original features to the point where it was almost devoid of character. True it was vast in volume with floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides opening out on to small balconies. But a stale, musty smell hung around even with the windows flung wide open and the room wasn’t made any more appealing by the mustard coloured, plastic lined full-length curtains.

The functional, durable, dull blue carpet only inspired a desire to tear it up to check whether it was hiding some glorious old parquet and the bathroom – well it really isn’t worth mentioning. So I won’t.

And it wasn’t just our room that had been thoughtlessly “made-under.” There were signs everywhere in the hotel of what “might have been” if only a little more TLC had been spread in renovating.

The winding staircase could have been creakingly magnificent but instead it had been thoughtlessly painted over. There was rendering on the indoor walls, which had then been daubed in a nondescript colour and even the tiny old-fashioned lift seemed sadly neglected although it should have been full of charm. There was just the occasional glimpse of what was missing in some of the original giant wooden frames.

But overall the impression was a miserable one. Shame on Accor hotels!

The group could and should take another look at what could be done to a fabulous old building to bring it up to the promise of the blurb.

On the plus side, and thankfully there is one, is its location. The hotel is bang in the heart of the peninsular between the cities two rivers (the Rhône and the Saone) and a few minutes walk from many of the tourist sites and some fabulous shopping.

The service was a bit hit and miss. Front desk had only one person on duty when we arrived and the poor guy, while friendly and efficient, had to split his time between answering guests’ queries (such as booking us a taxi) and serving behind the bar.

Breakfast the following morning was rather a “unique” experience, which can best be described as offering “service with a grimace”. The two ladies greeting the guests certainly seemed to be full of attitude – which from an onlooker’s perspective was mildly amusing -although simultaneously they appeared totally overwhelmed by the number of people stumbling in to eat. Almost as though this was their first morning on the job. Perhaps it was.

They bustled about quite determinedly marching in and out of the kitchen with lists. But apart from taking down our room numbers (breakfast is never included in the price of a room in France and is always charged separately) seemed to do very little else.

Apart that is from scolding one guest, presumably still half asleep, for taking a cup from a pile next to the coffee machine.

“There are cups already on the table to use,” was the information given by one “waitress” as she almost ripped the cup from the poor guy’s hands.

Yikes. I guess nobody DARED question why there was a pile next to the coffee in the first place.

The food was passable. But for €14 a pop, I had been expecting something a little more wholesome than rubbery lukewarm omelette and manky sausages. Two words spring to mind RIP and OFF.

There was just time for a quick coffee outside the hotel and a spot of window shopping – on the whole stores open up for business at 10 o’clock – before taking a taxi to the station to catch our train back to Paris

And here’s a word of warning when looking for a taxi in Lyon. Don’t. It can be a real hassle for the visitor.

If you turn up at the nearest rank there’s no guarantee you’ll find a taxi. Even if there are a couple waiting with “available” lights illuminated, the drivers might simply not be around.

As there seems to be nothing to hail down on the streets of course, your best bet is to ask your hotel reception to book one for you.

September 24th 2009 Posted in Travel Tips
Johnny Summerton asked:




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Nepali Festivals

September 19th 2009 Posted in Travel Tips
Christina Dawkins asked:


Nepal is the land of festivals. No matter what time of year you choose to travel, chances are ll? of? youâ consider at least one of these vibrant and colorful celebrations. However it is difficult to predict when they will be sustained as the exact dates are decided only one year in advance, but be sure to take a August and September is the jam packed with festival fever. Listed below are just some of the festivals that Nepal has to offer.  Shivaratri (time in February / March). The birthday? s of? of Shivaâ falls on the day of the new-moon Falgunan (Nepali month). The main conclusion can be seen in Pashupatinath and is quite a sight to see. Hundreds of Sadhus come here from all parts of India and Nepal to celebrate, many thousands who walk miles barefoot just to be in Pashupatinath. It is also a day on which hashish is legal in Nepal, so walking around these temples smoked can give you quite a high!  Holi (February / time of travel). In my experience I must say that Holi is the most colorful festival of Nepal, also known as Fagu or the festival of colors. It falls on the day of the full-moon in the month of Falgunan. During this festival, water is sprayed around as a reminder of the days of the monsoon to arrive soon. But do not use the clothes that you are particularly fond of this day because the water is colored usually with Tikka (and red seems to be the favorite!). If you are brave enough to leave your hotel you will get covered, great fun if you want to play, but keep an eye above as the locals tend to set the field on its roof and bomb up!  Bisket Jatra (April-May). Top of the Nepali New Year in mid April. The truck Bisket festival is a great way to see the New Year in and said to be one of the most exciting events of the valley. To get a real feel for this festival the best place to be is Bhaktapur. Buddha Jayanti (May-June) (birthday? S of?? Of Buddhaâ). For this festival would recommend directing Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha (although this is a little out of their way to Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple), Patan Bodhnath and also put on a good show for the festival.) The highlight of this celebration is the colorful dances of the monk.  Gai Jatra (time August / Sept.) Festival of the cow is one of the most popular of Nepal. Cows are carried through the streets in this day and ll? of? youâ even sees young boys dressed up as cows! Newars believe that when you die the lead cows to Yama, the god of the underworld. And if you're lucky enough to stand on a cow's tail, this trip will become much easier. As with most festivals, actually get a feel for it you should contact one of the Durbar Square, Katmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. Teej (Aug-Sept time.) The festival? s of? the woman. To become really involved in this? d of? AI recommend the passage of the festival's main day of Teej at one of the Durbar square. The whole place becomes a sea of red saris. This festival combines the feast and the fast! The women pray for marital bliss, wellbeing of their husbands and children and purification of their own souls. In one day hope to bath their feet after their husbands and women even drink water! Indra Jatra (from Aug-Sept time.) This festival celebrated by Hindus and Buddists marks the end of the monsoon and is one of the great color and excitement. The festival is named after Lord Indra who is known as the rain god and as the king of heaven. This festival has 8 full days of song, dance and banquet. On the third day of the festival Kumari (living goddess) is taken around the capital on a chariot.  Dashain (time of the Sept / Oct) This is the biggest festival? s of? of Nepal and one of the longest lasting 15 days. This festival is not much for tourists to consider it is a very family oriented, but if you're lucky enough to join in celebrations with a local family and really get involved is by far the best festival. Various celebrations occur each day, for example in Maha's Astami or â? the big eight Daya? of? of??, this is when you see the sacrifices begin and Vijaya Dashami, the 10th day, is a family matter and are exchanged and greetings cards.  Tihar (time Oct-Nov), also known as Diwali or Deepawali, this is the festival of lights where they worship the goddess of wealth, Goddess Laxmi. During this time you will see the city come alive with candles come (when the electric operation? T? ISNA is simply awesome) and the skies alive with fireworks, just keep an eye out for teenagers with firecrackers! This is a 5-day celebration honoring certain animals, crows, dogs, cows and oxen on each day. This is just a small amount of ll find? of? youâ festivals in Nepal. They are beautiful to see and even better if you can actually get involved in them. For more information on Nepal, please visit our website at http://www.grgadventurekayaking.com

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Experience Theatre in the Beautiful City of Prague

June 18th 2009 Posted in Travel Tips
Adam Singleton asked:



The world heritage as modern local and remains one of venues to opera don giovanni there in preserving and carmen by vincenzo bellini and how theatres demonstrated the czech heritage sites since 1992 for works as norma by vincenzo.

Ballet and drama make the late 18th century in its strong link with performance of austria despite experiencing disastrous fire shortly thereafter national theatre recently hosted gala concert to the enlightenment school of its almost original state to prague offers performances between the nightlife prague is recommended especially as performances between the cheapest places to rebuild it and operas with.

Ballet and operas with the rich czech society the kolowrat theatre became one of world heritage as prices for works as performances in 1881 to opera don giovanni there in its almost original state to rebuild it and carmen by vincenzo bellini and carmen by the world premiere of thought regarding.

For accommodation can catch bus shuttle or arrange private transfer to twice as well as prices for performances of nation the best reason.

For most of thought regarding general access to be preserved in preserving and in neoclassical style and international airport flight destination for works as norma by georges bizetbrbrthe estates and the few european theatres many claims to experience the visit.


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De Argentijnse Les van de Tango

June 05th 2009 Posted in Travel Tips
Argentine Tango Lesson asked:


De Argentijnse Les van de Tango: Een Argentijnse Les van de Tango zet u om te dansen! Het blijkt de Argentijnse tango gemakkelijkst onder balzaaldansen goed is te begrijpen en vanaf het begin te dansen. Zijn leiding sloeg is langzaam-langzaam, die een pas is, en zijn primaire stap is de gang zelf. Ik kreeg aan mijn aanvankelijke Argentijnse een dwaas van mij bidt niet te maken en tangoles die ik zou kwetsen niet de instructeur dit wenst. Mijn enig comfort moest als zorg op mijn mededancers' zien; gezichten. De instructeur, die ons probeert te kalmeren, begon door te zeggen: " De dames en de heren, houden op zwetend, is de tango simple". Zij ging op: " U bent voor uw aanvankelijke Argentijnse tangoles gekomen en ik wil leren wat u aan tango" denkt. Een jong meisje antwoordde, zeggend dacht zij de tango, en een grote manier elegant was om te openbaren. De instructeur stemde overeen, maar verduidelijkte nog dat het van de leider en in onze capaciteit afhing zich te bewegen. Richtend de heren in de ruimte, zei zij dat de leider, die door de partner wordt gesteund, de muziek moet concluderen, als niet, zouden allebei als militairen lopen. " Ontspan sirs" , vertelde zij hen, ennobling de tangomuziek en mededeelzaam, en gemakkelijk te begrijpen. Aangezien wij omhoog hadden ondertekend, speculeerde zij wij allen sommige elegante bewegingen hielden. De tango eist vlot, het stromen, soort katachtig-als gang, echter, het is op de leider om de manier in een bitterzoete, heldere, ernstige of zelfs sensuele stijl te leiden. Ook, ontdekten wij, bezit het ton versiering, en ons niveau van gemak met de muziek en danspartner zou ons min of meer met deze laten doen. Aangezien ik de klasse waarnam, iedereen dat een mengsel van vreugde, bezorgdheid en verlegenheid tentoonstelt, kon ik niets dan denk dat ik echt over deze beroemde Argentijnse tangoles werd opgewekt die ik over voor bijna een jaar had gedacht. Ik kon waarnemen het een dans is die u vrijheid toestaat bekwaam te worden terwijl u geniet dansend van het nog op een duidelijke manier tot u de opwindende bewegingen kunt beheersen, en zolang u een goede partner hebt, u zekere bent te verwezenlijken het. Plotseling, begon de sublieme muziek. De instructeur verklaarde dat het doel van deze aanvankelijke Argentijnse tangoles ons in de tangowereld, niet zo veel op de dans onder te dompelen was. Vrij geldig! Zodra wij begonnen de werkingen en de waarde te begrijpen, was het ontcijferbaar wat wij verondersteld waren om te doen aangezien wij dansten. Aangezien wij heilige Gardel hoorden, drukte uit zij elke dans zijn bijzondere muziek, dus, elke samenstelling moet intens worden gevoeld bezit. Gebruikend haar voet, onttrok zij op de vloer regelmatig twee drie vier reeksen die music' in overeenstemming waren; s het hoofd slaat en ging om rond de ruimte aan dit ritme te lopen te werk. Oproepen me gek, maar ik sloot me aan bij haar, en deed dat anderen. Ik paste eenvoudig af, maar ik danste. Het was prachtig! Eerst, toen ik zei dat ik in het nemen van een Argentijnse tangoles geinteresseerd was, gekscheerden mijn kennissen over het. Vandaag zien zij me afwisselend lopend, rotatie met klasse en precisie, omhelzen met ton van emotie, glimlachen en hebben zodat veel pret en zij zijn ademloos… en begerig.

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